It was time to think about the fact that I'm due back on the east coast by 8th January. So what did I do? I had heard good things about the Brachina Gorge, so I turned north again. This gave me two more nights roadside (A & C) and - between them - a drive through archeological time and along the most challenging road of the trip, with some wonderful scenery: Brachina Gorge (B). Archeology features are signed, but I think I missed some signs and due to a breakdown in their numbering system I couldn't work out which was what. However I didn't need to worry because later I discovered that there's full information here.
A drive through Brachina Gorge After that I stopped in Hawker (D) for a cup of coffee and some fresh veggies, then drove straight to the town of Cradock (E). The publican said that there's a permanent population of 14, with seven living in the pub: I think he has a large family. There's camping available around this friendly pub, which just happened to be serving Christmas dinner that night. What good fortune for me! To get onto the Barrier Highway towards Broken Hill meant going through Peterborough (F), which is the most interesting town for railway enthusiasts, and which was throwing a number of Christmas parties. Whilst here I turned back a second time to explore Magnetic Hill (G), where there's supposed to be a strange optical illusion in which you think your car is going uphill backwards while you are rolling downhill. Or vice versa. It didn't work for me ... but I've since realised that's because I should have pointed Berth up the hill and rolled backwards rather than forwards. ... Maybe? Yunta (grey spot) was the next town and I was puzzled that every house has a huge shed, so I asked the bloke having a beer outside the pub and it turned out that people work as contractors on the surrounding sheep stations and need to store their own equipment. Here I turned back a third time, tho more briefly: I was so disappointed to find that Centenary Park, where vans stay overnight, is squished between the highway and the railway line with all the attendant noise, that I left before breakfast. I headed two blocks to the edge of town where I spent the morning gazing along the backroute to Arkaroola, a route so rough that I had been counselled against taking it when I left there. ... Anyway, if I had I would have missed out on a lot of good stuff. A few hours later I crossed the border into NSW (I). From Cradock to NSW Night 292 - Hucks Lookout, a little north of Wilpena Night 293 - somewhere beside the Outback Highway Night 294 - beside the Cradock Hotel, Cradock Nights 295-6 - Peterborough Caravan Park, Peterborough Night 297 - Yunta Centenary Park rest area
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AuthorIn mid 2018 I started recording each night I sleep in Bertha: sometimes just for myself, sometimes to share with friends and other travellers. Archives
February 2024
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